Designers evoke old world and new
By Thomas Adamson
Published: Thursday, July 4, 2013, 8:55 p.m.
“Fashion is the only thing that can travel ... from the old world to the new,” proclaimed Karl Lagerfeld. And on the second day of haute couture shows, Chanel's showman couturier made his point with aplomb: Standing next to pop star Rihanna, he delivered the words from the stage of an old, decayed opera house.
As ever, the master designer stole the show, with the most impressive couture display. His creations glittered in dramatic contrast with the broken-down theater, re-created inside Paris' Grand Palais. Faded, grimy curtains, old wooden stalls and some classic clothing styles mixed alongside futuristic streaks of silver embroideries and cosmic-looking hats.
Haute couture itself dates back over 150 years and is steeped in history. But the hurdle for designers is to keep the looks fresh while also keeping the artisan-based method of making clothes alive and relevant.
The setting saw Lagerfeld carry off a dark, expressionist-tinged fall-winter 2013 collection.
A series of A-line skirt suit-styles were twinned with Grace Jones-style space-age hair. Intergalactic square hats attached at the back of the head seemed to float like a geometric halo, in a great anachronism.
The 67 very wearable looks had some notable features, such as wide, often shiny, belt bands and mosaic patterns. Instead of boots, Lagerfeld put legs inside “stocking shoes,” attached up the leg with garterlike lingerie.
Giorgio Armani seemed to strip the body bare in a classic couture collection titled “Nude.”
The checkered runway in pearly hues of yellow, pink and beige set the mood for the nude-tone musings for fall-winter 2013. The colors recurred on the 52 creations, all of which were constructed with a delicate femininity. The Armani Prive show made its statement in skin-color fine organzas, lace and tulles, which exposed much skin.
The Spanish royal court's master painter Diego Velazquez was one of the inspirations behind this collection. Thirty-three creations saw Rolland using black, flowing capes to get this regal message across, as well as hanging lengths of rippling silks that conjured up the idea of nobility or time-old queenliness through the material's simple, natural luxury.
Though the collection was not groundbreaking, it confirms that the normally glitzy and glam designer, who's known for dressing red-carpet celebrities, is moving in a welcome, more elegant direction.
Thomas Adamson is an AP fashion writer.
Show commenting policy
TribLive commenting policy
You are solely responsible for your comments and by using TribLive.com you agree to our Terms of Service.
We moderate comments. Our goal is to provide substantive commentary for a general readership. By screening submissions, we provide a space where readers can share intelligent and informed commentary that enhances the quality of our news and information.
While most comments will be posted if they are on-topic and not abusive, moderating decisions are subjective. We will make them as carefully and consistently as we can. Because of the volume of reader comments, we cannot review individual moderation decisions with readers.
We value thoughtful comments representing a range of views that make their point quickly and politely. We make an effort to protect discussions from repeated comments either by the same reader or different readers.
We follow the same standards for taste as the daily newspaper. A few things we won't tolerate: personal attacks, obscenity, vulgarity, profanity (including expletives and letters followed by dashes), commercial promotion, impersonations, incoherence, proselytizing and SHOUTING. Don't include URLs to Web sites.
We do not edit comments. They are either approved or deleted. We reserve the right to edit a comment that is quoted or excerpted in an article. In this case, we may fix spelling and punctuation.
We welcome strong opinions and criticism of our work, but we don't want comments to become bogged down with discussions of our policies and we will moderate accordingly.
We appreciate it when readers and people quoted in articles or blog posts point out errors of fact or emphasis and will investigate all assertions. But these suggestions should be sent via e-mail. To avoid distracting other readers, we won't publish comments that suggest a correction. Instead, corrections will be made in a blog post or in an article.
- Shadyside designer brings soft wear to Strip District showroom
- Design books for the stylish coffee table
- Designers handbags carry clout with signature style
- Party time: Shimmer and shine with festive cocktail dresses
- Fashion FYI: FashionAFRICANA celebrates beauty, diversity at Downtown show