A lighter take on French onion soup, via Italy
Everybody loves French onion soup, and with good reason. Caramelized onions swimming in a rich beef broth flavored with a splash of red wine or brandy and topped with broiled Gruyere cheese? Every warm, gooey mouthful lights up your taste buds like a pinball machine. It's exactly what you want on a cold winter's night.
But it is not light. In my quest to slim down this French classic, I turned to Italy. I caramelized the onions in olive oil, rather than butter, swapped out the Gruyere in favor of Parmigiano-Reggiano (less fat and bigger flavor, so you can use less of it), and moved the croutons and cheese off the top to make room for a poached egg. Finally, I added some pancetta for flavor, because we have to have at least a little fun.
I took much of my inspiration for this recipe from Cesare Casella, a brilliant Tuscan chef who used to hold court at Beppe, a wonderful restaurant within walking distance of my home in New York years ago, now long gone. I thought Casella's soup really improved the French original. I especially like the addition of the egg. The yolk makes up for at least some of the richness lost when the Gruyere goes bye-bye.
But unlike Casella, I don't have homemade beef stock just hanging around my kitchen, so I used chicken broth as the base. Once upon a time, I couldn't find store-bought beef broth that made the grade. Now, Rachael Ray has come out with a good one. I recommend it.
If you'd like, you even can get a jump on this recipe by poaching the eggs ahead of time. Just cool them off after you're done by transferring them with a slotted spoon to a bowl of ice water. Then, store them in the refrigerator on a plate covered with plastic wrap until you're ready to reheat them. All you need to do is submerge them in a pan of barely simmering water for a minute or two.
Traditional French Onion Soup is a rich first course. This Italian-style onion soup is a full meal in a bowl.
Chef Sara Moulton writes this column for the Associated Press.
Italian-Style Onion Soup Topped With a Poached Egg
Start to finish: 1 1⁄2 hours (20 minutes active)
2 ounces chopped pancetta
3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
3 pounds yellow onions, thinly sliced
1 cup red wine
5 cups low-sodium beef or chicken broth
Kosher salt, to taste
1 tablespoon white or cider vinegar
4 large eggs
1 1⁄2 ounces Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese, finely grated (about 1⁄2 cup)
Freshly ground black pepper, to taste
Eight 1⁄2-inch-thick baguette slices, toasted
In a large saucepan over medium heat, cook the pancetta until it is golden. Transfer it to a plate using a slotted spoon.
Return the saucepan to medium heat. Add the olive oil and onions, then cook, covered but stirring occasionally, until very soft, about 20 minutes. Remove the cover and cook, stirring frequently, for another 35 to 45 minutes, or until the onions are golden brown and caramelized. Add the wine and boil until it is reduced by half. Add the broth and simmer for another 20 minutes.
Bring a large saucepan of salted water to a low simmer. Add the vinegar.
Crack each egg into a small glass. One at a time, gently and slowly pour each egg into the simmering water, bringing the lip of the glass right down to the water so that the egg slides in. Depending on the size of your pan, you may need to cook them in 2 batches. Cook for 4 minutes, then use a slotted spoon to lift each egg out (letting excess water drip away).
To serve, ladle the soup into 4 bowls. Top each with a poached egg, sprinkle with some of the cheese, some of the pancetta and pepper to taste. Serve each portion with 2 toasts on the side.
Makes 4 servings.
Nutrition information per serving: 710 calories (250 calories from fat), 28 grams fat (8 grams saturated), 200 milligrams cholesterol, 31 grams protein, 73 grams carbohydrates, 8 grams dietary fiber, 1200 milligrams sodium
Show commenting policy
TribLive commenting policy
You are solely responsible for your comments and by using TribLive.com you agree to our Terms of Service.
We moderate comments. Our goal is to provide substantive commentary for a general readership. By screening submissions, we provide a space where readers can share intelligent and informed commentary that enhances the quality of our news and information.
While most comments will be posted if they are on-topic and not abusive, moderating decisions are subjective. We will make them as carefully and consistently as we can. Because of the volume of reader comments, we cannot review individual moderation decisions with readers.
We value thoughtful comments representing a range of views that make their point quickly and politely. We make an effort to protect discussions from repeated comments either by the same reader or different readers.
We follow the same standards for taste as the daily newspaper. A few things we won't tolerate: personal attacks, obscenity, vulgarity, profanity (including expletives and letters followed by dashes), commercial promotion, impersonations, incoherence, proselytizing and SHOUTING. Don't include URLs to Web sites.
We do not edit comments. They are either approved or deleted. We reserve the right to edit a comment that is quoted or excerpted in an article. In this case, we may fix spelling and punctuation.
We welcome strong opinions and criticism of our work, but we don't want comments to become bogged down with discussions of our policies and we will moderate accordingly.
We appreciate it when readers and people quoted in articles or blog posts point out errors of fact or emphasis and will investigate all assertions. But these suggestions should be sent via e-mail. To avoid distracting other readers, we won't publish comments that suggest a correction. Instead, corrections will be made in a blog post or in an article.
- Steelers RB Archer trying to catch up after tough rookie season
- Steelers LB Timmons has grown into leadership role on defense
- Pirates third baseman Ramirez’s last ride is about winning a ring
- Steelers notebook: Backup QB Gradkowski remains out with shoulder issue
- Gameday: Pirates at Twins, July 28, 2015
- Penguins to appear on national TV 18 times in 2015-16
- Rising East Liberty out of reach for Pittsburgh’s poor
- Pa. House speaker says overriding Wolf’s budget veto ‘an option’
- Former Cal U football player cleared of assault charges sues university, police, prosecutor
- ‘Real’ people, solutions at heart of GOP ad blitz in Pa.
- Crane topples over into Perry North demolition site; no one injured