Much to chew over before mulching
The soil has finally dried out a little and the weeds have not yet begun their yearly onslaught; a combination that means mulching time has finally arrived. Mulch is any product that is applied to the soil surface to suppress weeds, stabilize soil temperatures, and stave off moisture loss. There are many different mulches on the market, each of which have their own positives and negatives.
Here is the skinny on a few popular mulching products.
Aged manures: I use manure as mulch on my perennial gardens and vegetables. In order to avoid possible pathogen exposure, be sure any animal manure you use is fully composted and a minimum of a year old. And use only manures from animals with a primarily vegetarian diet. Think horse, cow and sheep. Be warned, though, that manure can contain a lot of weed seeds and always wear gloves while working with it. The nutrient content and pH of manure depends on the type of animal and the bedding used to house them. In general, animal manures contain small amounts of nitrogen, potassium and phosphorous, as well as many trace nutrients.
Compost: A personal favorite, finished compost is useful for many different reasons. It's always available from either your own pile or for purchase, and it's often quite affordable. Compost adds more organic matter back to the soil faster than other products and it often comes with a slight nitrogen charge to boost your plants. I also like how easily it spreads since its fine particles sift down around the plants rather than burying them. The pH of compost averages between 6.0 and 8.0, though its ingredients do impact the pH of the finished product. On average, compost contains 50 percent organic matter and moderate amounts of both macro- and micro-nutrients. Composts containing biosolids (sewage sludge) can be too high in nitrogen and should be avoided as a mulching product to prevent nitrogen burn.
Straw: I use straw in my vegetable garden because it's inexpensive, easy to apply and takes a season or more to fully break down. I use it to mulch the walkways and larger vegetable plants like tomatoes and peppers. It also works well beneath cucumber and melon vines, where it helps keep the developing fruits off the soil and away from pests and diseases. Spreading a few layers of newspaper beneath the straw serves to prevent weeds even more, especially in the pathways.
Shredded bark or hardwood: Though dyed bark mulches should be avoided as they are often made from possibly contaminated recycled wood products and do not break down to add organic matter to the soil, uncolored shredded wood products are a great mulching option. I like to use shredded bark around my “woody” plant material like trees and shrubs. Many landscape suppliers have single-, double-, and even triple-shredded wood products. While single-shredded lasts longer, it's coarser in appearance than the finely graded triple-shredded mulches. Choose whichever suits your gardening style. Be warned, though, that shredded bark mulches are in a fresh state and, unlike finished compost, they are actively decomposing. As wood-mulching products decompose they do indeed “steal” a little nitrogen from the soil and, though this nitrogen is eventually returned when decomposition is complete, it can cause a temporary lack of nitrogen in the top few inches of the soil beneath. Not a big deal around deeper-rooted trees and shrubs, but with more shallow-rooted perennials, annuals and veggies, this may cause a nitrogen deficiency in some plants.
Leaf mold or leaf compost: This type of compost is comprised of a single ingredient: leaves. It can be made commercially from municipally collected leaves or at home from leaves collected on your own property each autumn. Leaf compost is a favorite for its friable, loose texture and lack of weed seeds. Though it is fairly low in nutrients, the amount of organic matter leaf compost adds to the soil is substantial. I use it over my entire vegetable garden as well as in many of my perennial beds. It was once thought that the types of leaves used to make the compost influenced the finished product's pH and nutrient levels, but some recent studies have confirmed that the pH and nutrient content of leaf compost is fairly stable, regardless of what types of leaves were used in its creation.
Horticulturist Jessica Walliser co-hosts “The Organic Gardeners” at 7 a.m. Sundays on KDKA Radio. She is the author of several gardening books, including “Grow Organic” and “Good Bug, Bad Bug.” Her website is www.jessicawalliser.com.
Send your gardening or landscaping questions to email@example.com or The Good Earth, 503 Martindale St., 3rd Floor, D.L. Clark Building, Pittsburgh, PA 15212.
Show commenting policy
TribLive commenting policy
You are solely responsible for your comments and by using TribLive.com you agree to our Terms of Service.
We moderate comments. Our goal is to provide substantive commentary for a general readership. By screening submissions, we provide a space where readers can share intelligent and informed commentary that enhances the quality of our news and information.
While most comments will be posted if they are on-topic and not abusive, moderating decisions are subjective. We will make them as carefully and consistently as we can. Because of the volume of reader comments, we cannot review individual moderation decisions with readers.
We value thoughtful comments representing a range of views that make their point quickly and politely. We make an effort to protect discussions from repeated comments either by the same reader or different readers.
We follow the same standards for taste as the daily newspaper. A few things we won't tolerate: personal attacks, obscenity, vulgarity, profanity (including expletives and letters followed by dashes), commercial promotion, impersonations, incoherence, proselytizing and SHOUTING. Don't include URLs to Web sites.
We do not edit comments. They are either approved or deleted. We reserve the right to edit a comment that is quoted or excerpted in an article. In this case, we may fix spelling and punctuation.
We welcome strong opinions and criticism of our work, but we don't want comments to become bogged down with discussions of our policies and we will moderate accordingly.
We appreciate it when readers and people quoted in articles or blog posts point out errors of fact or emphasis and will investigate all assertions. But these suggestions should be sent via e-mail. To avoid distracting other readers, we won't publish comments that suggest a correction. Instead, corrections will be made in a blog post or in an article.
- Jewish congregations dwindling, forced to mull viability of worship sites
- Pirates notebook: Taillon headed for surgery, Richard traded
- Ex-teammates say Kessel unfairly criticized
- New Penguin Kessel’s shot is what makes him special
- Early turnout strong for Pittsburgh’s Fourth of July festivities
- Bethel trio of siblings celebrate 150 years of marriage
- Floating homes offer ‘affordable’ option in San Francisco area
- Russian winger Plotnikov could join Penguins in August
- Pirates can’t overcome long rain delay, Indians in interleague setback
- America’s path to freedom reflected in region’s numerous historic sites
- Gorman: Barnstorming tour bigger than baseball