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Colorful hair, makeup liven up autumn look

| Thursday, Sept. 5, 2002

It's safe to say we're in for a colorful fall — and that's even before the leaves start to turn.

After a sweltering summer, when makeup was applied over a layer of sunscreen for protection against the way-too-hot sun, cosmetics manufacturers are offering a palette of warm — yet very cool — fall shades to create bold, new, exciting looks.

For its new GrooveLine Patina Shimmer Collection, Philip Pelusi has introduced three groups of colors:

  • Deeper shades for intensity — earth (russet brown) and brick (red brown with flecks of gold and emerald).

  • Accent shades to add a splash of see-through color — pulp (like adding gold to orange juice) and pistachio (where lime and olive meet silver).

  • Mono shades to serve as highlights or wear alone — moon (a white gold) and sand (a plum beige).

    Nikki Pelusi-Blahusch, cosmetic product manager, says the line is labeled Lunar Makeup, because it gives the face a matte, monochromatic glow.

    "Makeup is getting away from the super dewy wet look," she says. "The overall idea is to use lighter shades to illuminate around the darker shades closest to the eye. This color should also be swept across the entire eye to soften and add an overall glow."

    Eyes are the main attraction for fall, Pelusi-Blahusch says, and lips and cheeks in quiet earth tone shades are secondary in intensity. The look makes a great appearance for day and eveningwear, depending on the amount of color and combinations used, she adds.

    "The look is sophisticated and modern but wearable," she says. "The eyes are the wild card. They can be worn with soft mineral tones or intensified with deeper shades."

    To match the mix of opulence and richness that she is seeing in fall fashions, makeup artist Charlie Green says she's using color cosmetics to create exotic tapestries in shades of green, wine, purple and "mochaccino." The baroque look lends itself to deeper color, she says.

    "Big doe eyes are the focal point seeped in depths of color and rich textures, or subtle neutrals with pops of mauve, pink or eggplant, and set with kohl liners and lots of mascara," says Green, who put together a fall preview for Sephora in New York.

    Because the emphasis is on the eyes, Green recommends using barely tinted peach-colored lipsticks and blushes. But the almost natural-looking lips and cheeks are a prime canvas for glitter, she adds.

    "There's quite a lot of glitter out there," says Green, who for the long-lasting look uses a damp brush to apply the glitter. "The makeup shouldn't be a flat or matte. The colors have a two-tone quality or satin finish."

    MAC Cosmetics' new eye shadow colors include Shadowy Lady, a deep plum, and Quarry, an "understated" plum. The company's newest Lipglass shades are a coppered plum called Lovechild, a toffee called Revealing, and Entice, a spice color.

    MAC's senior artist, Patrick Eichler, says his company also is introducing a new collection of colored mascara.

    "It can do a lot for you," he says. "My favorite shade is Periwink Wink, a lavender blue. If you're afraid of wearing colored mascara, just try it on the top lashes."

    Still focusing on the eyes, Eichler says eyebrows will be "another accessory on the face for fall, something we haven't considered for the past few seasons."

    A Brow Set line of color tints will add a new dimension to the brows, he says.

    "They do so much for your face, whether you're darkening or lightening. You can do both with brow sets," he says.

    Brow Set resembles mascara, he says, but it's more sheer and tinted with small pearl particles that help keep the eyebrows from looking cakey.

    GapBody also introduces new colors in its Gap Color cosmetics line. Spokeswoman Jill Robertson says the line is based "on a range of beautiful, natural colors. We've edited the palette to be practically mistake-proof for customers. It's simple, uncluttered — so women don't have to worry about finding just the right shade of lipstick or trying dozens of eye colors. The shades are versatile enough to work with every skin tone for any occasion."

    Chanel achieves "high-drama eyes" with its Extracils Super Curl Lengthening Mascara in shades of black, brown and violet. It can be teamed with one of 10 new Ombre Unique Shadowlights eye shadow in matte frost or satin.

    Meant to be used wet or dry, "Shadowlights is the perfect product for the smudged rock-chick look," spokeswoman Tracy Geiger says.

    For lips and nails, Chanel presents matching shades of Electric/Peachy, Erotic/Magenta, Vertigo/Purple and Serene/Golden Rose. Its limited-edition "star product" is Les Perles De Chanel, pearl face effects to illuminate the skin and offer "genius feminine touches to any makeup look," Geiger says.

    In hair color, some of those same autumn hues are even making their way into bright accents that bring to life the latest jagged razor cuts. Experts say it won't be unusual to see anyone from young teens to professional women wearing as many as four shades of autumn colors in their hair — as highlights, lowlights and extensions.

    "Color is very big for fall," says Melanie Fazi, owner of Step Up Styles family salon in Plum. "There's a whole spectrum of colors from which to choose. Warmer, earthier highlights in gold and reds spotlight a hairstyle in as many as four shades that all blend harmoniously."

    For those who want to tiptoe into the trend, Fantastic Sams introduces its Rock Hard Color Gelees, an alternative to permanent color, says Tina Nicholls of the North Versailles salon. In shades of red, purple, green, silver and yellow, the Gelees are applied to the hair like gel and last until they are washed out, she says.

    Raw-edge cuts rather than blunt cuts will be popular, following the lead of celebrities Britney Spears, Jennifer Aniston and Halle Berry, Fazi says. The look is achieved by cutting disconnected, rougher edges around the face instead of angles, she says. "Straighter styles cut chunky have detail and more texture."

    Spears and other celebrities also are the impetus behind color extensions, says Mary Lynden, Toronto-based spokeswoman for Premier Salons in Lazarus stores, including Downtown. The extensions also come in a variety of shades and are designed to add length and volume, she says.

    Fazi says the trend is getting back to perms, only a newer version unlike the tight looks of the <#213> 80s.

    "Perms look more natural with some light, loose curls," she says, "like a messy-looking wave or beach hair."

    Another fall hair trend brings back bangs — but not the straight-cut, even-across-the-forehead bangs some of us wore to grade school. "The look is not fixed, but with lots of layering and loose movement," Pelusi-Blahusch says.

    Debbie Geiger, salon director at Beauty First in McIntyre Square, Ross Township, says side and asymmetrical bangs add a subtle look to the trend.

    "They can be razored to be more jagged or cut asymmetrically to go over to one side," she says. "They can even be cut opposite of where you wear your part."

    Geiger advises women to consult their stylists before venturing into a totally new look.

    "Every season, something new comes out, but our face doesn't change," she says. "Hairstylists can't forget their clients' lifestyle, shape of their face and bone structure. It's up to us to do what's going to look good on them."

    Tips from the pros

  • For a flower child-chic face, makeup artist Charlie Green of Sephora suggests using a shimmery peach eye shadow on eyelids with turquoise shadow pressed into the eye crease and under the lash line. The eyes of her bohemian-luxe look are created with a glittery purple shadow smudged with a light violet shadow on the lid. Using a damp brush, press a dark brown shadow into eye corners and under the lash line to highlight intense color. An all-over peach color gets blended high on the cheekbone with a dash of deep purple on the apples. Try a light layer of Glitter Lipstick in violet on the mouth, Green suggests.

  • I-Iman national makeup artist Jay Manuel offers these tips to get a sexy, cool look: Apply a cream-colored shadow over the entire eye; follow with three coats of black lash mascara; use a plum-colored pencil to line both the eyes and lips; shape cheeks with an orange-tint bronzer; and add sparkle with a shimmery mauve lipstick topped with a high-shine gold gloss.

  • Makeup artist Sue Devitt, founder of Sue Devitt Studio cosmetics, says most women ease into a new beauty routine instead of changing everything at once. "Most women tend to wear a neutral palette, because it's a safety zone. To encourage them out of it, I'd use an eye intensifier or eyeliner with an intense color — a deep smoky purple would be good — around the lash line, both above and below, and smudge it with the fingertip. Layer it over beige shadow," Devitt says.

    — The Associated Press

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