The “ice ball man” is back on the North Side.

Gus Kalaris has been manning the bright orange ice ball cart under the rainbow-colored umbrella near West Park on Pittsburgh’s North Side for seven decades. The stand opened for the season on Wednesday, just in time for the Pirates home opener on Thursday.

JoAnne Klimovich Harrop | Tribune-Review Gus Kalaris shaves a 50-pound block of ice at Gus & Yiayia’s on Pittsburgh’s North Side on April 8.  

On the menu at Gus & Yiayia’s are three items: flavored ice balls, peanuts and popcorn.

“I love the mix of people that come here,” said Kalaris on Thursday, as he shaved the 50-pound block of ice for what seemed like a never-ending line of customers. “They come from all walks of life and from all over the city.”

Kalaris turned 89 in January. He took over the business in 1951 from his father George, who started it in 1934. “Yiayia,” the Greek word for grandmother, first referred to Gus’ mother, Pauline, and then his wife, Stella, who died in 2016.

Courtesy of Gus Kalaris Gus Kalaris (right) and his father George at Gus & Yiayia’s on Pittsburgh’s North Side.  

He said many of the customers come for the nostalgia of enjoying a snow cone that they remember from their youth.

Jessica Olzak Sikora, of Ross, remembers coming to the stand as a child with her five siblings when she lived in Brighton Heights. Rainbow was her favorite. She and her husband, Zack Sikora, brought daughters Gemma, Liliana and Ruby.

“We wanted to tell Gus, ‘Thank You,’ ” Olzak Sikora said. “He and his team are great people. My family and I have been graced to go here. I can’t believe I’ve gone for 35 years, and my daughters will now have that bright joyful rainbow umbrella memory forever.”

The stand is a staple in the neighborhood from 11 a.m. to 7 p.m. seven days a week, through October. Over the years, there have been six carts. Kalaris built four of them. His dad built two. The most recent one is made of hard rock maple.

Kalaris, who lives in Brighton Heights, wakes up early to make the flavors – a mix of simple syrup with food coloring and extract.

The three items are the same products his father sold. The ice they use comes from DiMartino Ice Co. in Jeannette.

“This ice is pristine,” Kalaris said. “It is the ice used to make ice sculptures.”

Kalaris said his dad charged 3 cents for an ice ball so he could compete with Isaly’s. The cost today is $1.25.

Kalaris had a winter job for 25 years with a boiler company. He left that 15 years ago. He survived kidney cancer in 1998 and a quadruple heart bypass in 1999. He’s also had a knee replacement.

“When I was in the hospital they had ‘The Ice Man’ on my medical chart,” he said

Steelers owner Dan Rooney and his wife Patricia, who lived a few blocks away, became friends with Kalaris. He often attended their Christmas parties.

Kalaris said he lost 45 days of business last year because of the pandemic.

His wife, their children and grandchildren have worked with him. The couple had two daughters and four grandchildren. The first great-grandchild is due in July.

Courtesy of Gus Kalaris Gus Kalaris (right), his wife Stella Kalaris (left) pose for a photo with “Wheel of Fortune” celebrity Vanna White who stopped by Gus & Yiayia’s on Pittsburgh’s North Side when she was in town for the show.  

Celebrities such as Vanna White of “Wheel of Fortune” and singers Tony Bennett and Vic Damone are among those who have stopped by over the years.

Ryan Bickert of Observatory Hill was a customer — and became an employee 10 years ago.

“I love working here,” Bickert said. “I get to meet so many people from all over the place.”

Richard Schempp of Verona, who rode a motorcycle into the city on Thursday, enjoyed a cherry-flavored ice ball.

“Gus is a super nice guy,” Schempp said. “These are the best.”

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