Ruth's Chris executive chef looks back on 37 years of Pittsburgh's dining scene
A mild-mannered chef known for serving up sizzling steaks and specialty meals to celebs and patrons for 37 years at one of Pittsburgh’s most elegant steakhouses is wrapping up his culinary career.
Ruth’s Chris Steak House Executive Chef Dennis Denk is hanging up his chef’s coat this weekend, after working at a restaurant that he considers a second home.
His last shift is Saturday.
Denk said the entire experience leaves him with countless memories and a most sentimental work perk — a wife.
“I met my wife here,” Denk said Wednesday during a sit-down interview with TribLive before his evening dinner shift.
“Michelle. She was working here in the kitchen. We’ll be married 30 years this year,” Denk said with a smile.
When he met Michelle in the Ruth’s Chris kitchen, she was in culinary school.
Denk reflected on his countless hours behind the line cooking with specialty broilers that heat up to 1,200 degrees and said his impending retirement comes with mixed emotions.
“I’m going to have my nights free now,” he joked. “Weekends free. That will be new. I’m going to spend time with my wife and family. We like to go out to eat.”
Denk was nonplussed as he recalled the numerous celebs he’s cooked for, including Michael Jordan, Warren Buffett, Charles Barkley, Danny DeVito, Jack Nicholson, former Pittsburgh Steeler Charlie Batch and his wife LaTasha Wilson-Batch, and Bruce Willis.
“He came in with Demi Moore for lunch and it wasn’t busy. I don’t come out and bother people,” Denk said.
Ruth’s Chris Steak House opened at PPG Place in 1987. The owners of the Pittsburgh location, Peggy and the late Jack Offenbach, personally hired Denk, who was trained by the restaurant chain’s founder, Ruth Fertel.
For the Denk family, time at Ruth’s Chris became a bit of a rite of passage.
The couple raised two children, Dennis and Jeremy, both of whom worked at Ruth’s Chris.
“They were busboys and worked in the kitchen,” Denk said. “And I have six grandchildren and I brought two of them to work with me.”
Denk, 65, grew up in Mount Washington and resides in Eighty Four.
He says he’s always been too busy working to find a proper hobby, but that’s about to change as his retirement schedule will align with Michelle’s.
Getting home late every night is something he won’t miss from the chef world.
“My wife and I are on different schedules,” he added.
A self-taught chef, Denk stumbled into the food and beverage industry out of necessity — he needed a high school job to earn money.
“I worked at the Red Bull Inn as a fry cook. I didn’t know how to cook,” Denk said. “I didn’t think I’d end up in culinary, but it’s all I’ve ever done.”
Previous chef stints included jobs at the Grand Concourse and Charlie’s Place in South Hills Village.
“You get in there and get dirty and learn,” Denk explained.
At Ruth’s Chris, a typical Saturday night dinner shift for Denk could include serving up to 350 plates.
“It’s a good feeling once you get through it and you have a good night. It’s pretty rewarding,” Denk said.
That, and worrying if his restaurant food orders would be delivered correctly and on time.
Sitting in a leather booth, looking around the dining room accented with warm, wood accents, Denk took in the view one more time.
“I am gonna miss it. It’s been truly a great experience and the longevity of it speaks for itself,” Denk said. “Jack and Peggy set the tone with this place.”
Denk described his chef style as patient.
“He is nice,” said Ruth’s Chris Steak House co-owner Scott Offenbach.
The two men, friends for almost 40 years, share a brother-like bond.
“He and I are the last two original from the early days that worked here,” Offenbach said. “It’s a family-owned business and it’s hard to see him leave. Dennis has a work ethic that is almost impossible to replace.”
Shaun Koewler, formerly of the Hyde Park Restaurant Group, is the new executive chef. He has trained for a month with Denk.
Fine dining shifts
Offenbach said a crackdown on expense account meals and the pandemic crushed the once-thriving lunch scene at Ruth’s Chris.
Social dining habits post-pandemic changed everything, he said.
Only half of his staff returned after the pandemic. Offenbach recalled when he rarely had to put out a help-wanted ad.
Ruth’s Chris’s Downtown location employs about 55 employees, a reduction from pre-pandemic staffing levels pushing almost 80.
Denk said he’s noticed a decline in the more formal wear once sported by diners.
“People are just more casual these days. The client lunch has kind of faded away. Covid took a lot of people out of the city, although I think it’s starting to come back,” Denk said.
Offenbach concurred.
“One of the biggest (changes) is dress code. When we first opened, most men wore jackets and ties and women wore dresses or skirts. Now, people are less casual almost daily,” Offenbach said.
In 1987, the franchised Ruth’s Chris Steak House in Pittsburgh was the 12th Ruth’s Chris to open in the U.S.
Denk’s pre-retirement celebrations with co-workers have included an employee dinner with a cake and gifts. Offenbach hosted a management dinner in Denk’s honor at the Duquesne Club.
“It will be very different here with his retirement. We’re used to talking every day,” Offenbach said.
Offenbach noted Denk has always gone above and beyond for his family business.
“Dennis has a great work ethic and he’s a very nice person on top of it all. He’s trained hundreds of people,” Offenbach said.
Peggy Offenbach recalled when Denk was hired. He originally inquired about the Ruth’s Chris job via a phone call while he was on vacation.
A follow-up in-person interview left the Offenbachs impressed.
”From the very beginning, Dennis was impressive. My late husband Jack was impressed with his knowledge of meat and the business. Denny was just such a nice person with a young family and he was calm and settled for his age,” Peggy Offenbach said. “I interviewed him as well and his personality was just so mature.
“I just wish him well and much happiness. He certainly helped us and I appreciate it so much. We definitely hope to stay in touch as friends,” Peggy said.
His parting message to his loyal steak-loving patrons?
“Thanks for all the support,” Denk said. “Coming here when Jack and Peggy interviewed me, there was really nothing Downtown and our restaurant wasn’t even finished yet. But it paid off. I’m thankful.”
Joyce Hanz is a native of Charleston, S.C. and is a features reporter covering the Pittsburgh region. She majored in media arts and graduated from the University of South Carolina. She can be reached at jhanz@triblive.com
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